Rear hub removal and assembly.
With thanks to the Bristol Austin Seven Club magazine 1983
Remove the wheel, take out the split pin from the axle shaft and remove the nut( ¾” Whit spanner, 1.300” across flats).
Remove the brake drum countersunk screws ( on Girling brake pattern, loosen off brake adjuster as there may be a ridge inside the drum).
Screw the extractor on the hub (make sure this is screwed right home or it will damage the thread on the hub or the extractor).
Screw up the centre bolt of the extractor, keep pulling on this and hit the head of the bolt with a heavy hammer (copper if poss) then the outer hub will come off. You will see the inner nut on the case, knock back the tab washer and undo the nut (1” Whit spanner, 1.670 thou across the flats), the inner hub can be levered off with a tyre lever.
REPLACEMENT:
Put the inner hub on the axle case.
Put in the felt (must be lubricated) then the steel backing plate and the race and tab washer.
Tighten up the nut and lock over the washer.
When the hub is off, the outer hub can be lapped onto the axle shaft with grinding paste.
Put on the paper joint and the outer hub, tighten up the nut and replace the split washer. When tightening the axle shaft nut, this has to be tight. If the split pin holes do not line up, do not loosen off the nut but remove it and turn off a few thou from the back. If the nut goes on a long way where it has been lapped on a lot before, it is possible that the gear on the end of the shaft can foul inside the diff case.
Notes on threads: Thread on axle case: 1¼“ dia. x 16 tpi
hub: 1 3/8” dia x 16 tpi
axle shaft/nut: 5/8” dia x 16 tpi