Things to check:

· Free play at steering wheel less than 3 inches (wheels on ground)

· Tightness in lock-to-lock steering (wheels off the ground)

· Track rod ends

    · Broken, missing or misaligned leaf springs; worn spring eyes; wheel bearings (sideways movement); King pins (vertical movement)

 

Comments:

· Check all split pins

· Tighten king pin cotter pin

· The new double front shock absorbers are a good thing (a cheaper fix is to bolt one end of shock absorber directly to axle.)

· Check radius arms bracket and cups

· Essential to check for a cracked steering arm (or replace new from D Cochrane just to be sure)

· Check steering arm ball joint (see website for mod)

· Check torque tube anchoring point (large star nut)

Things to check:

· Handbrake, general brake efficiency, pulling to the side under braking

· Rubber cover on pedal

Brake linings > 1.5mm (above rivets)

· Cables and clevis joints. (Only 1 adjuster allowed per cable)

·Loose back plate

 

 Comments:

· Check for front cables locking-up wheels on turn

· Give a slight rear-brake bias

· Check brake levers are perpendicular to cables

· Get someone else to drive the car for comparison

· Tapley Meter house brick test: if a house brick (frog rearwards) on its side falls over when the brakes are applied at 20 mph, that's about 50%, (foot brake) and if it falls over when stood on end it's about 25% efficient (handbrake) and these are within test limits.

Things to check:

· Spokes loose, bent or corroded

· Missing wheel studs

· Tyres for lumps, bulges, cracking,  cuts, exposed cords & poor seating on the rim

· Tread depth (1.0mm <1933; 1.6mm >1933) & a complete pattern across the whole tread width.

 Comments:

· Check the tracking with a home-made frame or a “Gunson Trakrite” tracking plate (see YouTube for demo!) still available—about £45 on E-bay.

· Tyre pressures officially 22-24 psi but some members use 26 psi or even higher to counter soft-walled (elderly?) tyres.

· Don’t ignore the spare—it might have to be used and then you could be breaking the law.

Things to check:

· All body to chassis fixings for corrosion, damage, fracture or inadequate repair including suspension units within 30 cms.

· Body for sharp edges

· Seats for secure fittings

· Speedometers are required after October 1937 and must be capable of illumination (and are working)

Things to check:

· all fuel lines, fuel tank, carburettor etc for fuel leaks

· Fuel filler cap must have rubber seal

 

Comments:

· Front tank seals are extremely important

· Use Ethanolmate (through the club) or Ethanolmix (Frost’s)

· Check exhaust pipes/silencer for leaks as these reduce power.

 

Things to check:

· Damage to windscreen must be contained in a 10 mm circle

 

 Comments:

· Pre-1978 need only have 1 rear-view mirror (external or internal)

· There must be no stickers within the swept area

· Wipers & washers are not required in cars with opening windscreens

 

Whilst members were split roughly 50-50 on whether to use a garage for either a full MOT or new Annual Safety Check, or do their own servicing,  in case of an accident, insurers will be checking the vehicle very carefully and its service record.  Clearly, a professional check will carry more weight.

You can download a copy of the MOT Testers Manual from www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/motttestingmanualsandguides.htm