DORSET AUSTIN SEVEN CLUB   MARCH 1980

 

CLUB NIGHT

THURSDAY 21st MARCH, NAGS HEAD, RINGWOOD.

SLIDE EVENING. PLEASE BRING YOUR SLIDES ON RALLIES ETC., EVEN IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE OR TWO.

 

EDITORIAL

At the last committee meeting, the question of Public Liability

insurance was discussed.  It transpired that insurance was not
really the answer, and that we ideally should become a Limited Company.

The only problem is the cost.  It would cost £75 - £100 to form the
company, and then we should have our accounts audited annually by a chartered accountant.

The trouble with our present system is that anyone making a claim against the club has to sue the committee and if they win their claim, they could take everything from one or indeed all of the members of the committee including selling their houses!!

On the question of raising the initial £75 - £100 Bernard suggested running an autojumble which he said he would organise, and enquiries are to be made concerning accountancy. Has any member any suggestions or views? 

I put the Ruby back on the road on March 1st after fitting a late type Ruby clutch and flywheel.  This is a very big improvement; it is much smoother and I have a lot more pedal travel.  The later clutch uses a lined centre plate instead of linings on the flywheel and cover. Clutch renewal is made far simpler as all you have to do is swap the centre plate for another (provided you have two!)

I understand Phil Whitter’s Ruby is almost ready for the road. I'm told he’s been working most nights well into the small hours to have it ready for Easter. A winner at Beaulieu this year Phil? We are having a pre-France run on 23rd March, meet at the Nags Head at Ringwood at 12 noon. We will have a talk about the trip and what to take etc. and then go for a rum to Stonehenge. All members are welcome, those going on the French Trip are requested to make every effort to attend in their Sevens.

ED

 

NEXT MONTHS COMMITTEE MEETING: Tyrells Ford, Avon, Thursday 28th March

at 8.30 p.m.

 

CHANGES OF ADDRESS The following committee members have moved.  Their new addresses are as follows:-

Phil Whitter & Hilary .... 134, Northfield Road. Poulner, Ringwood, Hants, Ringwood 5558

Lawrence Rideal & Paddy .... 63, Strouden Ave., Bournemouth, Dorset, Bournemouth 510105



 

YOUR COMMITTEE:

CHAIRMAN.......................Derek Nunn, 36 Avon Ave., Avon Castle, Ringwood (78795)

SECRETARY..................... Bernard Cowley, 232, Rempstone Road, Merley, Wimborne (887666)

TREASURER..................... Lawrence Rideal 68, Strouden Ave.,Bournemouth (510105)

SOCIAL SECRETARY ..............John Stone. 22, Cobham Way, Wimborne

(886537)

EVENTS SUB COMMITTEE ..........John Page, 74 Walcott Ave., Christchurch

(75207)

Gary Munn, 36, Avon Ave., Avon Castle, Ringwood (78795)

Glyn Llewelyn, 10, Woodvale Gardens, New Milton (613080)

SPARES SECRETARY ..............Phil Whitter, 134, Northfield Road,

Poulner, Ringwood (5553)

COMMITTEE MEMBER.............. Mike Wragg, 239, Station Road, West Moors,

Ferndown (875057)

NEWSLETTER EDITOR............. Glyn Llewellyn. 10, Woodvale Gardens,

New Milton (6l3080)

 

The following letters were received by Bernard recently:-

Dear Bernard,

As you may know Keith Roach, Ted Taylor & I have started a small business making vintage car bodies particularly Austin 7.  We make Chummy, Ulster, Van etc., as well as the RTC Special body to fit on the Ruby chassis.

We would like to put a small advertisement in your club magazine if that is possible? Perhaps you could let me have details. 

Incidentally I have a feeling that I should join as Ringwood is much nearer for me than the Solent A.7. Club Meetings. What extortionate sum do you charge these days?

                                                                     Barry Clarke, The Long House, Woodgreen, Fordingbridge, Hants, Breamore 371

 

NATIONAL AUSTIN SEVEN RALLY 29th JUNE 1980

Bernard,

As you probably know by now I am running Beaulieu for the first time having taken over from Ken Cooke. I hope I can count on you all for support.

I am introducing a slightly bigger inter-club driving competition, which will be teams of four cars. There will be prizes for each member of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd teams.   Each club or group can enter more than one team if they so wish.  The other thing is we are introducing camping at Beaulieu, the limit is 50 tents.  There will be a charge which is controlled by the forestry commission. Entry forms will be following.

Yours, Ted Peckham

 

FK 2666 – FILM STAR!


I had a phone call a month or so ago from a chap enquiring whether I owned a 1924 Austin 7.  When he told me what it was for - a film on the 'Love Story' theme for BBC 1 I said I had a 1925 Austin 7 and it was near enough to 1924 not to make too much difference.  A week or so later the phone went again and he told me to be in Weymouth at 8 a.m. the following Thursday. I decided to take the car down to Weymouth on the Wednesday and leave it in a lock-up down there overnight.  A few days before I checked over the 7 and had to run the starter off a 12v battery fitted between the seats (it jams at the moment on 6v. I think it needs another ring gear).

The run to Weymouth was uneventful apart from the usual blocked jets.                                                         The next day I arrived at the hotel at 8 a.m. and was told they didn’t kick off until 9 a.m and was taken aback that the actor had to drive the car. I then went round the garage and cleaned the car again and took it down to the sea front - it was quite a bleak morning overcast and wet - the props men were already there taking down lights, putting up signs etc converting the sea front cafe into a bus station. Then another wait, now not starting until 10 a.m.

Let me put you in the picture (pardon the pun) about the team and back up needed to make a film.  It really amazed me there were three large pantechnicons (2 lighting, 1 props), one camera van, 4 cars, 2 minibuses, 2 cameramen, 2 soundmen, 2 still cameramen, 1 camera mechanic, 1 producer, 1 director, 2 costume, 2 makeup, 1 continuity, 1 props man, 4 lighting men, 1 actor, 1 actress, extras and 2 policemen.

I was introduced to the actor, Tim, who was about 6 foot tall and took him for a drive warning him about various things not to do like closing the door properly (as I haven't got a proper catch). He said that in this shot he had to make the car kangaroo along the road – which is not too difficult with an A7 but I was a little worried about my half shafts.

After two takes the film was in the can and that was it for the first day. I was told to report the next day at 8.45 am at Herringstone House just outside Dorchester so from Weymouth I took the car to our Dorchester showroom overnight so that it was handier for the morning. I arrived at 8.30 a.m, to be told nothing was starting until 9.30 a.m. It was pouring with rain - luckily the catering van was already set up so I tucked into a bacon roll and a cup of tea.  The car wasn’t needed until mid-morning and by this time the sun had come out and it was really bright. In the first shot the actor had to drive down the road and stop a few feet away from the camera. The first time he just about stopped! I hadn't told him to use the handbrake as well as the foot brake!  After two takes all was ok and it was time for lunch - not just a few sandwiches but a full meal even down to cheese and biscuits!

After lunch the car was really put through its paces.  First of all I had to take the sound man a couple of miles recording the engine and gear changes including a few bad ones especially for the background sounds.  Then Tim and the actress drove the car up and down a few times with the film crew taking shots from the middle of a field then there were three shots of the car swerving! around an AA man.  Then another three shots taken swerving with camera and sound men in the car! And three shots with the camera hung on the side of the car. The car was continually running all the afternoon with no trouble at all.  I had said to someone I bet as soon as I got away from the filming the carburettor would get blocked again - and sure enough just outside Dorchester it did! So ended my first adventure into the film world.

BERNARD

 


RESTORATION OF WL 1133 continued

 

Finally, the engine parts arrived so I started to put the engine together. When it was almost three quarters complete I decided to turn it over and to my surprise it wouldn’t turn more than about 30 degrees. Well, to cut a very long story short I almost completely stripped it when suddenly I realised what had happened.  When replacing the side water manifold, one of the bolts must have been just too long and, unknown to me, pushed into the cylinder wall of No. 2 bore.

This of course necessitated another expensive re-bore of another block, so be warned - check side water manifold stud lengths!

Well, finally I got the engine rebuilt and after a couple of teething problems, the engine burst into life, and I must say it goes like a bomb! Apart from refitting the engine, petrol tank and all the associated parts, we have got the hood frame spray blasted and zinc primed at Spray Blast on the Hamworthy estate, for a mere £5, which has saved hours of tedious rubbing down.

The next job, this afternoon is to fit the front wings, valances, radiator shell and bonnet, all of which have been beautifully sprayed by Chris Smith who by the way should have his Ruby on the road by next club night - good luck Chris.

GARY

 

THE PRAM HOOD REGISTER

I learnt with regret that the Pram Hood Register are not issuing any more newsletters, due to lack of support and they have returned all the 1980 subscriptions of which there were three.

ED

 

USEFUL INFORMATION

Broken crankcase front bearing lips repaired by Reg. Pickett, The 7s, Carters Clay, Lockersley, New Romsey, Hants.  £10 each, carriage extra.

 

CARE OF THE HOOD

The two principle types of hood employed on open cars comprise the leatherette, or imitation leather, and the waterproof twill or fabric ones.

The former should be treated for preservation or restoration in a similar manner to leather.

Hoods of the twill or fabric types should occasionally be brushed with a stiff bristle brush to remove mud and dust. They also may be washed with a pure soap and water using as sponge for the purpose.  Afterwards, rinse well with cold water. Do not use warm water for either process.

It is important to avoid the use of petrol, paraffin, benzene or naphtha on hoods as these liquids dissolve the rubber impregnation and therefore injure permanently the fabric and cause water leakage.

From time to time, the inside of the hood should be thoroughly cleaned by brushing and washing with pure soap and water.

Never put the hood of the car down whilst it is wet, or even damp, as

This will cause rotting or mildewing of the fabric. The side curtains also should only be stowed away when dry.

 

RESTORING SIDE CURTAINS OR WINDOWS

It frequently happens that the side curtains celluloid or “non-flam” material windows become dull, dirty, or scratched. In the former case the original lustre and transparency can usually be restored by wiping over lightly with a piece of cotton wool soaked in acetone or amyl acetate.  This dissolves the surface, and on evaporating leaves a new surface. Metal polish, is also efficacious in this respect.

Ordinary side and rear “lights” can be cleaned effectively by wiping over with a soft cloth damped with alcohol.

With acknowledgement to Austin 7 Owners Club

 

FOR SALE

2 Ruby valences, 1 Ruby petrol tank, 1 low front axle (for a special)

1 late front axle complete, 1 4 speed gearbox, 1 early Ruby door glass,

1 Ruby side flap window, 1 Ruby windscreen, 1 Austin 10 carburettor,

1 Ruby luggage rack, 1 Magmo speed (dial type), pair Austin 6 headlamp shells, Austin 6 grille, 1 Big 7 steering column & steering wheel. Telephone Richard Cowell, Gillingham 4102

 


 

WANTED

Overhead com 1929 - 32 Morris Minor Engine or parts.

2 Austin 7 rear springs.

2 long shock absorber arms for early 7

Early valve cover.

Telephone Richard Cowell, Gillingham 4102

 

Driver’s side door for 1932/33 Long wheel base A7 Saloon. Any condition,

Phone Terry Jefferies New Milton 616372


 

TECHNICAL TIPS

A MEMBER has just rebuilt the petrol pump on his Ruby and was experiencing problems with petrol flooding from the carburettor. This was checked over in the usual manner (loose jets, sticking or faulty needle valve, punctured float, etc.) and was found to be OK. The trouble was obviously something to do with the pump and so this was removed.  The valves had been put in correctly, the actuating arm was the correct one and the diaphragm looked OK. However quite some metal had been ground off the face of the pump, where the two fixing bolts pass through to hold it to the crankcase, and the member admitted that he had done this because the face had warped. The problem was solved by fitting a much thicker gasket between the pump and crankcase, Doubling the thickness results in a drop in pressure of about ½lb. We used a gasket of treble thickness. One other point is that when the top of the pump is being fastened down the actuating arm should be pushed in, thus pulling the diaphragm down whilst the set screws are being tightened. Failure to do this can give rise to high pressure and a short diaphragm life.

With acknowledgment to the Midlands A7C

 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS – AUSTIN 7

Q I seem to experience great difficulty with the camshaft pulley every time I try to remove one. Is there a relatively simple way of doing this job?

A -Yes. This idea needs no special tools and can be worked in a minimum amount of time. After removing camshaft nut and washer (always remembering that these pulleys are not keyed). Get a large punch, or better still, a brass bar about ½“ diameter and about 9” long, place bar at the back of the pulley and on to the edge of one of the three holes in the pulley, as in the sketch, taking care to hold bar as near to right angles with the camshaft as possible, then give one or two sharp blows with a heavy hammer in an anti-clockwise direction. It will come off quite easily because the direction of the blow tends to unscrew it off the taper, also the blow being edge on to the pulley will not break or crack it.

Another method of loosening the pulley, of course, is by using a blow lamp. Being aluminium, a little heat will bring it off with cease.

With acknowledgement to the Essex A7 Club